The name might mistakenly suggest the soaring ceilings of this hip pizzeria were once part of a fire station. Rather, Firechief is a nod to the guys in charge of the burning ovens, ex-Ladro chefs Gabriel Espinoza and Daniel Barrese, who trained in Naples. This is no suburban takeout. It's serious pizza cooked three ways - wood-fired (to a strictly authentic recipe), on stone or in a modern conveyor oven. Purists can have their simply dressed, chewier margherita with a hint of char, while those who like it funkier can have braised saltbush Dorper lamb with goat's cheese, almonds and mint on a softer base, and kids a crisper modern creation, like Aussie with Otway bacon and free-range egg. There's a studied cafeteria feel - chequered lino floor, flitting young staff, a din - and a small list of other dishes that suits the cross-section of diners (young families, twentysomethings, older couples). Eclectic designer dabs include a 1930s Berlin brass chandelier. Sweet pizzas (maybe banana, caramel, chocolate and coffee cream) invite sharing.