Tetsuya Wakuda has long been one of the most revered figures in Australian dining, so it's fitting he has become a successful brand as well. There's a range of products, and a Singapore restaurant - Waku Ghin - attracting ever-louder accolades. Back at HQ, with its monastically uncluttered aesthetic and Japanese garden, tables are as in demand as ever. A 10-dish degustation is ferried to the tables by a parade of crisp and corporate waiters. The feast kicks off - after a shot of intense pea soup with chocolate sorbet - with a cluster of scrupulously sourced and meticulously plated seafood, including snapper with soy butter and delicately earthy nameko mushrooms; and the famous confit trout, its coral flesh speckled with konbu on fennel matchsticks. Three dessert courses may include apple granita with mint ice-cream and a deep-green basil jelly. Although minus a soupcon of the passion and excitement it once had, Tetsuya's remains a great culinary experience.