This little kitchen with its mod-Med/Middle Eastern notes is no longer a local secret - as shown by daytime queues outside and the excited noise levels inside. Inhale as you walk past the open kitchen where welcoming Israel-born Michael Rantissi turns out food from home - earthy flavours with creative tweaks. Like home, service is friendly rather than finessed, from aromatic breakfasts to spiced-up lunches and dinner, fresh, herby and textured. Crunchy sesame seed-studded Tel Aviv falafel are paired with salty green tahini. Cauliflower salad is chewy with grains and sweet with currants and pomegranate seeds. Fish kofta are rolled with minced snapper and pinenuts, loaded with pomegranate seeds and smoky eggplant salad. Gnocchi could have been a little lighter, however, and the accompanying ossobuco sauce cooked a little longer. Chocolate cake masquerades as pudding with almonds and discs of reassuringly chewy mastic ice-cream.

And … There are take-home churros with salted caramel.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Home away from home, with Middle Eastern flavours.
Best bit Not your average Sydney cafe food.
Worst bit Waiting for a table.