If they took away the beautiful sunset over the city skyline and outlawed the popular sport of people-watching on Sydney's sceniest marina, what would you be left with at China Doll? Well, some seriously good pan-Asian cooking from chef Frank Shek for starters. So much can go wrong with 'Modern Asian', and often does, but there's real integrity on show at this perennially rammed restaurant. A special of fresh, deep-fried harbour schoolies comes alive with a tingly sriracha dipping sauce. Then swipe some fluffy, beautifully light corn and zucchini cakes through a fiery chilli sambal. 'Hot and numbing' Sichuan-style pork ribs were slightly underpowered, but sublimely fresh steamed Cone Bay barramundi with chilli garlic and mustard greens is full-throttle fabulous. The dessert selection is short, and not everything will float your long-tail boat, but a mango tart with vanilla pashmak and honey yoghurt is all sweetness and light.