1. Heat the butter and 100ml of the oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat. Cook the onion and garlic until softened (about 5 minutes). Add the celery and stir and cook until caramelised, about 15 minutes.

2. Add the pancetta and fry for a minute or two, then add the chicken and pork mince, bit by bit, crumbling it in and stirring through as the meat browns.

3. Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a large frypan over medium heat. Add the beef mince and cook until browned (about 10 minutes). Add a bit at a time if there's a danger of crowding the pan at the start.

4. Once the meat is browned in both pans, add the beef to the main pan and combine. Add the tomato paste and stir for a few minutes, then add the milk and simmer for 3 minutes. Stir in the wine and simmer for 5 minutes.

5. Once the liquid has almost evaporated, stir in the bay leaves, sage, rosemary, nutmeg and chilli flakes and season lightly with salt and pepper. Stir in the tomatoes and stock, then bring to a simmer. Turn the heat to low and cook for about 2 hours, stirring occasionally.

6. Once the sauce has reduced and the flavours intensified, adjust the seasoning as needed. I like to stir the ragu through freshly cooked pasta and finish with a dollop of fresh ricotta or freshly grated parmigiano reggiano.

Tip: Frying the beef separately allows you to colour the meat without it boiling in its own juices.

*Note: A real bolognese wouldn't have garlic in it, nor chicken, and red wine would never be suggested as an option. But, rightly or wrongly, "bolognese" has become a byword for a meat ragu.