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Much like the famed bushranger for which it’s named, Yellow Billy doesn’t follow rules.

Take sommelier Pat Hester’s wine list, which in different hands might be limited to drops from adjoining Piggs Peake Winery or the Hunter Region at large, but instead is a heaving treasure trove of the best names in wine globally, alongside many more weird and wonderful expressions. Borders be damned.

Meanwhile, chef Sam Alexander’s fire-forward menu is just as likely to include a Korean-leaning beef tartare with a moat of kimchi mayo and a soy-cured egg yolk, as it is a chargrilled hunk of sirloin on the bone doused in Cafe de Paris butter, or a juicy slice of porchetta bejewelled with glossy, sweet mustard fruits and bubbly shards of crackling.

It’s all a brilliant excuse to round up some wine obsessed mates, blag a spot in the courtyard and settle in.