More than a year into their ownership, owner-chef Tim Foster and wife Michelle have put their stamp on these much-loved red-brick rooms. Danish tables and chairs with smart crockery, cutlery and glassware set the scene for out-of-towners; locals lap up the convivial vibe, clinking glasses and exchanging news. Foster, a self-described ‘old-fashioned romantic’, wants patrons to leave feeling ‘well fed and well loved’. He has excellent local producers and aims to expand the restaurant garden, which supplies herbs and leafy greens. Standout dishes include confit duck leg and smoked breast balanced with the tartness of pickled cumquats, and aged beef from Sidonia Hills with its soul mates – potatoes, peas, pancetta and cos. Chocoholics can’t resist gooey dark chocolate pudding with poached pear and hazelnut praline. Surprise inclusions like an amuse-gueule – maybe an autumnal trio of mushrooms in a just-set custard – and Foster’s organic sourdough bread, show a level of refinement and ensures a well-fed and well-loved clientele.

And ... The adjoining bar area provides meals for under $25.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Refined country with a dash of Nordic chic.
Best bit Perfect getaway.
Worst bit Saving room for local cheeses and desserts.