All over the world, highly acclaimed chefs are turning from formal fine dining to informal comfort food. Ben Willis is no exception, opening a casual but no less serious alternative to his much-awarded Aubergine restaurant, with chef Chris Darragh. The high-ceilinged space is lined with raw woods, and bare tables gather around a stool-lined central bar. A powerful wood-fired grill turns out everything from warm, smoky Moonlight Flat oysters to handsomely grill-marked marinated quail with grilled polenta fingers, and piled-high lamb ribs with spicy eggplant. The menu cleverly goes from snacky to slap-up; from a warm escabeche of sardines on toast and high-personality slider of pressed pig’s head with sauce romesco, to whole roasted flounder. And, yes, there are doughnuts - lush with salted caramel, marshmallow and banana ice-cream. Add a small but professional floor team and an intriguing wine list, and you have Canberra’s new opening of the year.

And … You can sit out on the street in warmer weather.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe A chatty mid-city bar/diner.
Best bit Comfort cooking from a skilled team.
Worst bit Canberra winters make sitting outside difficult.