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Dilemma. How best to make the most of Pearl’s menu? The obvious answer is to bring a group and have the dry-aged, double-roasted Peking duck, then pick and choose around it. But for just a couple of diners? It’s the banquet all the way. Granted, it doesn’t come with the duck, but it does offer nine tastes of the best that Pearl has to offer.

Lightly pickled cherry tomatoes refresh on a steamy summer’s day, as do rock oysters spiked with finger lime and ginger. Some of the prettiest dumplings in town come stuffed with prawn and finished with tiny egg white pearls and flying-fish roe, while live coral trout is delicately sauced with ginger and shallot, its sweetness shining through.

A Sydney accent, assured service and a serious drinks list seal it – just don’t forget to book a return visit to order that duck.