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The room may be small, the set menu short and the service understated, but there’s much to love about this cracking bistro. Dark timber panelling, rows of wine bottles and a jazzy playlist envelop diners in a pared-back room that feels confident in its minimalism.

French technique and superb saucery are displayed in almost every dish. Cured kingfish lounges with poached mussels and clams on salty oyster mayonnaise. Shattery-skinned John dory crowns a decadent pool of champagne sauce dotted with prawns and salty pops of salmon roe.

But it’s the duck a l’orange that’ll ruin you for life. Blushing and juicy, the half-bird is finished with a sweet, tart sauce so glossy you can almost see your reflection in it. A recent 10-year milestone is proof of the prowess on show – a mighty effort for a small regional restaurant, even in an overachieving street like this one.