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Matilda is known for menu constants, not constant innovation, and that’s how it remains a fan favourite among all the other restaurants in chef Scott Pickett’s empire.

A starter of spanner crab, finger lime and pigface is a prime example, served with grilled flatbread slathered in prawn butter. It’s a decadent, edible microcosm of the place. Duck crowns are smoked, finished over fire, hung like ornaments on the hearth then presented with fennel and charred mandarin. Grilled pork chop is aged to intensify its rare-breed magnificence, served flecked with shaved squash and mustard.

Even desserts feel the heat: smoked vanilla ice cream tops a bronzed tarte tatin. Leather booths, hewn blackwood tables and the glow of flames from the open kitchen create a clubby feel, accentuated by informative, efficient staff. It’s a club perfectly catering to its members.