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Time stops when you enter this womb-like 16-seater. The imaginative, meticulous menu by owner-chef Mo Zhou takes guidance from nature. Kangaroo-leek tarts resemble birds’ nests, and crocodile char siu is folded in a peppery nasturtium leaf.

Scallops hide in a windswept sea of white asparagus foam, tangled with soft kohlrabi and wild garlic capers. Dried autumn leaves are displayed under a dessert of roasted sweet potato, lemon verbena syrup and pine-needle ice-cream, which gets an earthy, crunchy boost from burnt cacao and puffed wild rice.

Another sweet dish sees yuzu grated over curd, jam and sorbet: a love letter to the Japanese citrus. Sake and wine are thoughtfully coupled, and non-alcoholic pairings – such as a shiitake, kombu and peach number – reveal true artistry. And, exhale.