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This dimly lit bistro is all classics, no cliches. Light-as-air gougeres filled with warm comte custard kick things off.

House-made charcuterie might include terrine persillee layered with fresh parsley and generous hunks of rabbit and ham, paired with a few half-moons of pickled celery.

Owner-chef Mia Coady Plumb’s mastery of fish is revealed in a lavish rock flathead bourride (the lemony, aioli-laced soup), while the vinaigrette finishing braised baby artichokes is an acidic circuit-breaker.

Wines lean low intervention, spanning appealing drops from France and Australia selected by co-owner Lawrence Scanlon (also of Dirty Black Denim wines). Perch at the bar or ask for a table by the replace out back; either will set you up for a memorable meal.