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Brutalist stylings give this Italian stallion an immediate sense of occasion. Eccentric white-jacketed waitstaff flit among slabs of concrete and marble as artworks are beamed onto the towering walls. The Euro-heavy wine list is serious business, but there’s room for play in this palace.

Top buttons are coaxed undone as the first round of white negronis blankets the table, joined by a foil-wrapped sandwich that’s superb in its simplicity: crustless white bread and veal cotoletta you could cut with a spoon. Otherwise, all signs point to pasta.

Dainty handmade capellini are strewn with chunks of crab, and light lasagne Pasqualina is meat and bechamel-free. Golf ball-sized lemon-ricotta doughnuts make for a zesty finale, while the staff favourite of vanilla tart – with its decadent marriage of mascarpone and white chocolate – fits right into this unflinching room.