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Cecconi’s Flinders Lane

A silver fox of city restaurants.

Cecconi’s tiramisu.
1 / 9Cecconi’s tiramisu.Supplied
Inside the elegant space.
2 / 9Inside the elegant space.Peter Schofield
An Italian classic.
3 / 9An Italian classic.Supplied
Roasted beetroot gnocchi.
4 / 9Roasted beetroot gnocchi.Supplied
Osso buco
5 / 9Osso bucoSupplied
Pretty plating is paramount.
6 / 9Pretty plating is paramount.Rebecca Hallas.
The John Dory main.
7 / 9The John Dory main.Eddie Jim
The pumpkin soup.
8 / 9The pumpkin soup.Eddie Jim
Scallops with Jerusalem artichoke.
9 / 9Scallops with Jerusalem artichoke.Eddie Jim

Good Food hat15.5/20

Italian$$$

Cecconi’s still looks good in linen and leather: not bad for a restaurant pushing 20. The plush basement feels purpose-built for corporate lunches and the kinds of dinners where dessert might just arrive with a diamond ring.

Lights are low and the playlist is gently jazzy. Black-clad staff drape napkins and whisk cloths across tables. The team at work in the sparkling kitchen is similarly precise. Life’s not too short for them to stuff olives, not when the prosciutto filling and crunchy coating play so well with velvety olive mayonnaise.

In a lightly garlicky linguine, top-drawer prawns, mussels, scallops and clams are immaculately cooked. Veal cotoletta gets a lift from apple-savoy slaw, while a finale of watermelon granita and rockmelon sorbet sums up summer. No surprise this family-owned stayer has added an equally handsome Toorak location.

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/link/follow-20170101-p5f63w