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We need more restaurants like Rebel Rebel. More restaurants that understand the importance of a warm greeting as soon as you walk through the door. More restaurants laying grilled octopus over a bed of potent skordalia. More restaurants that take their cocktails seriously, but not too seriously – we’re having fun here, folks.

In fact, there’s a strong urge to just sit on a house creation of tequila, hot honey and lime, with an extra serve of deep-fried sambal-spiked quail, and call it lunch. But this is the kind of casual knees-up best enjoyed with friends so you can really get across owner-chef Sean McConnell’s deftly charred rib-eye dripping with wakame butter, fan-favourite corn and manchego croquettes, and – if the season’s right – tomato and nectarine salad sent into orbit with fish-sauce vinaigrette.

Dramatic timber-on-concrete interiors and playful graphic design complete the package. Rebel Rebel, we love you so.