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Uccello

The best of Italy in a dining room overlooking Ivy pool.

The dining room.
1 / 7The dining room. Supplied
The rustic Italian interiors.
2 / 7The rustic Italian interiors. Supplied.
The menu is inspired by the Southern Italian coastline.
3 / 7The menu is inspired by the Southern Italian coastline. Supplied
Kingfish crudo with roast capsicum.
4 / 7Kingfish crudo with roast capsicum. Steven Woodburn
Lemon tart.
5 / 7Lemon tart. Supplied
Aperol spritz.
6 / 7Aperol spritz.Supplied
Beef shin pappardelle.
7 / 7Beef shin pappardelle. Steven Woodburn

Good Food hat15/20

Italian$$

Disclaimer

There is an ongoing investigation by The Sydney Morning HeraldThe Age and Good Food detailing allegations of sexual harassment, exploitation of female staff and drug use at Merivale venues. Merivale, the owner of this restaurant, has begun an internal investigation into the claims and says it is committed to “an inclusive, diverse and respectful workplace environment for our staff, as well as for our customers”. SafeWork NSW is also investigating the company.

If you loathe rooftop bars and pool clubs, Uccello might not be for you. If, though, you hanker for sailing-on-the-Amalfi-coast vibes, this is the closest you’ll get in Sydney.

Lean in by booking a table to watch people sashay around the sparkling Ivy pool, then opening with a plate of prosciutto draped over honeydew melon and a yuzu-kissed limoncello spritz.

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Uccello could easily deliver just-adequate service and food and likely still pull a crowd, but the trick, if there is one, is in the detail. Waitstaff are helpful and informed, and dishes we’ve seen many times are made with skill and excellent produce.

Uccello’s version of spaghetti alle vongole comes with plump live pipis tossed through lemony herb butter speckled by a generous crack of black pepper; eggplant fritti are surprisingly light; and there’s enough interest on the wine list to appeal to both Old and New World fans. Maybe Uccello is for you.

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/link/follow-20170101-p5eu66