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It’s the thinking drinker’s winery, where lunch might coincide with a visiting orchestra, and the curvy Allan Powell-designed art gallery houses significant Australian works from Nolan to Drysdale

You could happily spend a day lolling on the sculpture-studded slopes with a bottle from the cellar door and some local cheese. But then you’d miss out on the elegant, hyper-local cooking of new chef Maxwell Parlas.

Begin with a crunchy canele capped with savoury mushroom cream; cheesy, honey-drenched profiteroles; and tangy pickles. Buxton trout, gently set, is enlivened by buttermilk, salty pops of roe and seasonal flowers from the kitchen’s bustling garden.

That garden powers plant based set menus starring koji-cured grilled sugarloaf cabbage; butternut risotto peppered with pepitas; and rum baba with sparkling pineapple sorbet and peaks of coconut cream. Come for the exhibitions, stay for the top-tier dining.