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If the weather is right, scuttle straight out of the sea and onto a picture-perfect deck for Estrella beers, cocktails and fried mussels as the sun sets over Williamstown’s heritage-listed beach pavilion.

Sebastian’s is a menu you’d call Spanish-ish, but certainly built for Melbourne. Not a single pintxos sits on a bread base. Instead, it’s unadorned salty red and pickled white Cantabrian anchovies; crunchy, molten leek croquetas jazzed up by a potent leek ash aioli, or a bowl of mussels, plump, de-shelled and lacy-battered to dunk in fermented chilli mayo like protein-rich chip replacements for gym junkies.

Beyond familiar big house champagnes, Beechworth chardonnays and tempranillos, those who haven’t romped around Basque country might need the cliff notes on txakolinas (the lively white that’s the go-to at pintxos bars) and the rarer sumoll, a light-on red from Penedes from an almost extinct varietal.