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You might be on the deck watching the Raymond Island ferry come and go on a summer’s evening, or fireside on a foggy winter’s night: either way, certain things remain the same. Service is attentive and warm, and refined cooking leans on ingredients from Gippsland’s waters and fields.

Owner-chef Mark Briggs worked with some of the world’s best before opening this modern, grey-toned restaurant – now with adjoining wine bar – in 2017. His crumpets beg to be smeared with buttery potted shrimp. Sardine fillets loll in grassy chive oil, and crisp-skinned Lakes Entrance snapper comes with a sauce boosted by chicken stock.

Gratin of cauliflower, corn and leek is a side deserving of top billing. Hazelnut parfait with chocolate sorbet and honeycomb nuggets channels posh Violet Crumble. Making the familiar fabulous is the ninja skill of this waterside diner.