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It is, in a word, a vibe. The various spaces at Old Palm are a marvel, matched to superb drinks, gorgeous design and lighting so low it can scarcely be called lighting at all.

This is not to say food is an afterthought. Spice and smoke rule, and you have to give kudos to a menu bookended by sumac. Its sour tang begins in the scorched signature flatbread, and ends in a passionfruit and grilled vanilla cake. In between, encounter leeks and pickled mussels huddling with horseradish cream. Or a crisp injera cracker that’s a vehicle for eggplant relish.

The grill fires up for mains: cobia, whole flounder, chops and steaks, with wallops from zhoug and Cape Malay spice. The intensity doesn’t drop with dessert, where
smoked coconut, rum and coffee jostle for dominance in a fine little chocolate tart.