O.My

Ambitious fine diner where produce takes centre stage.

November 18, 2024

1 / 9Fried pastry ring with green garlic oil.Chloe Dann

2 / 9Inside Beaconsfield’s O.My.Chloe Dann

3 / 9Zero-waste cooking is impressively executed.Supplied.

4 / 9Calamari with pork stock and caviar.Hugh Davison

5 / 9Yacon and Italian meringue.Chloe Dann

6 / 9Chicken, shallots, brassica, preserved lemon.Chloe Dann

7 / 9Steamed garfish in fish-and-chicken broth.Chloe Dann

8 / 9Cheese-filled tortellini.Chloe Dann

17/20

Contemporary$$$$

Early in the meal at O.My an array of snacks arrives, including a stack of skewered warrigal greens. That this small bite turns out to be one of the most thrilling of the evening says a lot about this restaurant, which has evolved beautifully over 11 years.

Today almost everything on your plate is grown on the restaurant’s farm, bringing home the idea that chefs look at ingredients differently when they’ve had a hand in their cultivation. Those skewered greens are augmented with sliced, barbecued pork and pickled mouse melon, but vegetal pleasure remains front and centre.

Same goes for turnip with yoghurt and caviar, and for a plethora of different brassicas with steamed, kohlrabi-wrapped whiting. In a dramatic room simmering with positive energy, service retains the roguish charm of the early days.