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More than any other restaurant in Andrew McConnell’s wine-and-dine empire, Marion’s superpower is versatility. Any occasion can feel like a special one, whether it’s a quick arvo fizz teamed with flatbread and fromage blanc, or a milestone celebration fuelled by one of the most compelling cellars in town.

Seasoned waiters shape-shift between tables with ease, and the digestible menu of big flavours is balanced expertly. A baccala-stuffed, guindilla-topped pimento pepper is hot stuff, all peppery depth. Likewise a shiny tray of pipe rigate pasta, a worthy centrepiece with just enough spicy vodka-tomato sauce pooling in each shell-shaped curve.

When you inevitably order that extra bottle, be sure to glance at the after-dinner delights: the bittersweet vanilla-vermouth flan is a jiggly, joyous end. Coming up on 10 years, Marion couldn’t be more faithful if she tried.