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Of course your salad has been fashioned into a bouquet, ribbons of kohlrabi binding the leaves together. Art permeates all aspects of Pt Leo Estate, but especially chef Josep Espuga’s degustations at Laura.

Yayoi Kusama’s giant dotted pumpkin sculpture outside is echoed in miniature in a dessert of pumpkin ice-cream veiled by sheets of caramel mochi. It’s there again in the speckled surface of torched sea urchin mousse, which acts as a salty lid for risotto made with whey-cooked rice: a masterpiece of texture and temperature.

Lobster is flambeed tableside in locally distilled rum, and rabbit loin is painted with a deep bronze sweet-and-sour glaze. The floor team’s deep knowledge can be mined for details on the wafer that tops said rabbit, or a poetic recommendation of Fleurie beaujolais from French producer Anne-Sophie Dubois.