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Not every converted weatherboard cottage in a country town sells novelty tea towels or scones with jam and cream. This bright little venue, churning out izakaya-style plates and pours from neighbouring wine regions, is proof.

Japanese crowd-pleasers mingle with cameos from Taiwan and Korea on the lengthy paper menu that will have you flipping back and forth. Will it be Korean fried cauliflower – brittle and tingly chilli-coated florets – or karaage chicken?

Oysters in fine tempura wrappers are a solid choice, retaining their fresh, briny character. So too gyoza, their bottoms crunchy golden, the rest of the dumpling delicate and light.

Throw in bao buns or char siu pork from further afield, or stay close to Kuzu’s roots with a cocktail of sake vermouth, yuzu liqueur and rhubarb gin from the Macedon Ranges.