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You should arrive at Julie during daylight hours for two reasons. The first is to find it, hidden away within Abbotsford Convent. And the second is to allow for a sunset spritz on the terrace, where light filters through century-old oaks and rainbow lorikeets chatter above.

Inside it’s all very femme: muted pastels, shoegaze on the stereo, and wines that incline toward lesser-known varietals by women winemakers. Food is so unfussy it verges on austere, but there’s mastery in presenting a whole baby snapper in nothing more than a glassy pool of garlicky, seafood-infused olive oil.

The earthiness of radicchio just picked from the kitchen garden is offset by jammy fig, hazelnuts and soft goat’s cheese. If it’s too dark after dining for a stroll through the gardens, stick around – perhaps with a forthright lemon delicious pudding for company.