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Mint, pepper, chilli: it hits you as soon as you walk through the door. The room is as delightful as the olfactory experience, all rattan-backed chairs, luxe chandeliers and colourful artwork doubling as instruction on handling the namesake dish.

Start with snacks: beef tartare with fried idli (the rice-flour cake), or dosai (the thick crepe) with mint chutney and fried cuttlefish. Everyone is required to partake in the hopper set: tear off a piece of the titular pancake, scoop your curry of choice – blackened pineapple, fiery prawn or dry pork, all bursting with fresh spices – and pile on coconut sambol.

Hoppers are unlimited, and whimsical cocktails include a clarified margarita that tastes of the beach, made with coconut and blue Curacao. Hopper Joint is a love letter to the heritage of Brahman Perera, who owns the venue along with Jason Jones (both of Entrecote).