This old-school pub on a branch of the Murray River features red gum logs burning in the fireplace in winter, while cod and perch fishers line the bar in summer. Local farmers rub shoulders with out-of-towners who’ve heard about the famous steaks.

Owner Richard McGillivray breeds his own cattle, raising them on native grasses. After dry-ageing them, he grills every porterhouse and rump steak himself. Farmer, publican and chef McGillivray is also a dab hand at crisp-skinned roast duck and crumbed lamb cutlets made to a family recipe.