Grossi Florentino

Grand old dame of high-end dining.

November 18, 2024

1 / 9Grossi Florentino’s chocolate souffle.Simon Schluter.

6 / 9Fremantle octopus pizzaiola.Roslyn Grundy

8 / 9Veal and mortadella tortellini in brodo.Bonnie Savage

9 / 9The oysters at Florentino.Darrian Traynor

16/20

Italian$$$

Disclaimer

There is an ongoing investigation by The Age detailing allegations of sexual harassment and discrimination at Grossi venues. Owner Guy Grossi has issued a sincere and unreserved apology in response to accusations of inappropriate conduct and affirms his commitment to “creating a positive and respectful culture” across all of his restaurants.

Besuited waiters pull out plush chairs, unfurl linen napkins and bring tiny handbag stools. It’s classic old-school hospitality, and it includes an amuse bouche and house-made sourdough, whether you’ve chosen the degustation or a la carte menu. For almost 100 years, Melburnians have celebrated beneath these ornate chandeliers, watched over by Italianate paintings.

Dishes are just as elaborate. King George whiting is supported by scallop mousse and a slick of saffron sauce. Toasted grain ravioli is a nutty complement to strident plate mates baccala and preserved artichoke. Copper pots appear later, containing braised goat ready to be silver-served to a white plate, or the legendary souffle with DIY chocolate sauce, a menu staple for decades.

The leather-bound, 86-page wine list may require sommelier guidance, but like everything at Florentino, it’s no trouble at all.