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Gimlet is the definition of Big Occasion Restaurant: a chamber of parquetry, velvet, and snowy linen where even a snack at the bar feels celebratory.

From a spot on the slightly-too-low banquette, you might see an A-lister sipping the namesake cocktail from a frosty coupe, a tourist Insta-snapping wood-roasted lobster, and a besuited waiter performing a crepes Suzette cabaret.

Gnocco fritto with a rosette of bresaola should be a mandatory order, if only to speculate on how the kitchen got all that parmesan cream inside such brittle pastry shells. The duck liver parfait is an exemplar, its accompanying pickled blackberries providing a reprieve from the luscious richness. And anything from the wood grill – be it dry-aged duck, 900-gram T-bone or that lobster reclining on saffron rice – is bound to be memorable. Lean in.