The list of restaurants doing decent Mexican food in Australia is growing. It was especially exciting when, in 2019, street-food stand Frankie’s Tortas and Tacos appeared on Smith Street in Collingwood serving – you guessed it – tortas and tacos.

Now, after moving into a restaurant proper on Johnston Street, Frankie’s has a diner-like feel right down to the long counter, which provides a good chunk of the seating.

The menu hasn’t changed much – four tacos, four tortas and a few sides – but it’s the tortas you’re here for. Served on a soft bolillo roll, with just the right amount of squish and pull, the chicken milanesa in particular hits all the right notes, its interior smeared with refried beans, the chicken moist and crunchy.

Round it out with a Paloma seltzer, or a fizzing tepache version made with fermented pineapple.