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The light, the room and the snacky plates: it’s the holy trinity of the modern wine bar, in addition to the funky, cloudy stuff in your glass. The fitout here floors you first, with wood panelling for days and lighting on par with a meditation room.

You might not notice the acoustics, tuned to a perfect purr by the music industry pros in charge, but you will notice the chicken wing. It’s confited and compressed into a cube crowning a star-shaped slice of Wonder White with a sauce inspired by gor lae, the southern Thai curry. A charred wedge of sugarloaf cabbage delivers a dual hit of chilli heat and vinegar tang.

he steamed sponge cake tang gao is a tropical yet monochrome marvel: like soft, sticky honeycomb stained black by ube, paired with coconut sago. Divine and grounding at the same time.