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Don’t be fooled by the unassuming exterior. Within lies a softly lit cocoon of glam: plush leather booths, dark oak floorboards, and sea-green marble that accents the former factory’s whitewashed brick walls.

Fifteen years in, restaurateur Andrew McConnell’s flagship still wows and does so in a relaxed-yet- refined, no-tablecloths way. The mandatory degustation is no more but exceptional produce and meticulous saucing remain. Ditto personable waitstaff.

Charred squid is matched with vibrant green romesco. A rack of pink Loddon Valley lamb arrives with pancetta-wrapped sweetbread skewers and mint jelly. Butterflied flathead gets a garlicky boost from pil pil, the Spanish sauce made with salted fish.

The buttery base of a raspberry tart hides beneath swirls of airy creme diplomat and berries done two ways – proof in a dish that the pared-back Cutler still packs a punch.