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Everyone who goes to Brico talks about the wine, but what about the pork? Sourced from third generation farmers, the meat is sweet and marbled. It’s cooked over charcoal and served with bright, fresh greens and bagna cauda, which works wonderfully with the pork’s smoky flavour.

Whether it’s meat, vegetables, wine or sake, this thoughtful sourcing is at the heart of Brico. It’s an approach that pays off for farmers and diners alike. A swipeable, crunchy array of crudites with taramasalata is as colourful as an Easter hat parade. Sherry-spiked pipis jostle with jamon, butter beans and rye croutons in a ragged symphony, and olive oil cake makes a robust partner for a swirl of rhubarb yoghurt.

Wines are small-run, the team is smart and schooled, and music jaunts from jazz to Steely Dan, jamming with the easy mood of the room.