Bar Rosella took over the well-worn nook that was Gertrude Street Enoteca a couple of years ago, but expect to feel as if you’ve been dropping in for saucy southern Italian for significantly longer than that.

Service is familiar yet neat-as-a-pin, shelves are well-stocked with wine, tinned tomatoes and packet pasta to go, and plenty of garlic and oil in the kitchen make for consistently comforting meals.

Even the opening gambits here feel like main events: a citrus-heavy fava bean purée comes with a twist of garlicky chicory, and hearty stuffed mussels get the gratin treatment, layered with baked eggplant and gooey provolone, making for a decadent meal all on their own.

Even heftier is the orecchiette lamb ragù, while the spaghetti all’assassina – or killer’s spaghetti – provokes an enjoyable attack on the senses, its sticky strands coated in nostril- clearingly spicy oil and loaded with caramelised, chewy pan bits.