The scent of frankincense and cups of tej, the honey wine, are unmistakably Ethiopian. So is the meat-free menu. It’s a clever move at a time when more and more diners are receptive to vegan and pescatarian restaurants.

Roll up your sleeves and tear apart spongy scrolls of injera to dip into technicolour platters of spicy vegetarian stews (wats) and their milder counterparts (alichas).

Gomen showcases the earthy notes of braised leafy greens. Slowly cooked misir alicha renders green lentils luscious and creamy. And the red lentils of misir wat sparkle with cardamom, ginger and fenugreek. Chef Abel Damte may point you toward buttery fish fillets in fiery tomato and coconut milk gravy that you’ll want extra injera for.

On Saturdays, join those who come for free comedy, and stay for Ethiopian coffee from the traditional jebena pot.