Er, what's Italian for 'dude'? The latest, loudest hotel offering from the team behind the Norfolk and the Carrington channels old-style Italian with a touch of hip Americana. Moving from one level to the next is like changing neighbourhoods: through a classic American diner to an American ranch-house complete with wagon-wheel chandeliers, on to a New York bar/bordello, and back to a ground-floor Sydney pub. The menu rocks about a bit, too, from pineapple, prosciutto and jalapeno pizza to a meatball sub, spaghetti with red sauce and 'poppers' (deep-fried pork-stuffed peppers). A crusty, puffy margherita pizza is seriously good, and a rotisserie special of spice-rubbed goat is well matched with a light, fresh slaw. But dude, those balsamic ribs were throat-catchingly vinegary, and the side of spaghetti with red sauce, while amusing, was high on acid. Desserts are just as much a mash-up. There's a tiramisu knickerbocker glory? Of course there is.