The name is a nod to the cheap, no-frills eateries of yesteryear, but there's nothing budget about the experience at this youthful inner-west restaurant. Tables are generously spaced, the room a cool mix of timber finishes and curtains, while polished floor and wine staff mingle around a sculptural waiters' station. In this era of fever for the mid-market, the unashamedly modern menu is bravely degustation only (two sizes) with chefs themselves delivering dishes to the table. There's whimsy in the kitchen's creations - in a quirky interpretation of the potato scallop or a minuscule English muffin with cured pork. The simplicity drive over-reached with a one-note dish of cucumber, tomato and buttermilk, but a clever kitchen-garden approach elevates unsung produce to the top shelf, as in mutton with sprouts and wild spinach. Coorong mullet receives the same lift courtesy of native ginger leaf, while fennel and sour cream add pleasing personality to a strawberry and granita dessert.