New York deli food is being reinvented everywhere from London’s Mishkin’s to Brooklyn’s Mile End and San Francisco’s Wise Sons - and now at this frenetically pumping Bondi cafe. Brown Sugar’s Neil and Lianne Gottheiner and former Baroque Bistro chef Kurt Menghetti serve up classy breakfasts of smoked lox (salmon) and hash, lunches of pastrami on rye, and grown-up dinners of ‘brick’ chicken with panzanella salad. The Holmbrae chicken soup with vegies and egg noodles is the real deal; the reuben bagel (corned wagyu, swiss, sauerkraut) is a legend, and the house-baked brioche scrolls are walking out the door.