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With garlands of fern, milk-white interiors and a sunshiny terrace, you could be forgiven for thinking a meal at The Milton Hotel is going to be fresh little nibbles and dainty plates. Record scratch.

Almost everything on the menu here is fed into the central wood-fired oven and emerges smouldering with char, pumped up even further with almost brutishly bold sauces and seasonings.

Clyde River oysters bubble under a thick slick of fermented tomato and pork jowl, a meltingly tender wagyu rib gets its snap and crackle from a sesame crumb and a burnt pavlova with stout cream is topped by a dollop of jersey cream so thick that it stands to attention.

The pub-style service can feel brisk, but don’t let that deter you from tackling this rich and meaty menu at your own pace, ideally with a site brewed ale in hand.