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Opulent as this lofty art deco dining room is, it’s the multi-tiered cake trolley and roaming tableside tartare station that elicit the most attention.

That tartare – just-diced beef glammed-up with all the usual bits and pieces plus a good glug of anchovy-infused oil – makes a flashy opening statement, as do shellfish agnolotti basking in a fermented chilli and butter emulsion.

The slicing of the spatchcock pithivier – performed at the table, naturally – might not reveal as much of the advertised sweetbread mousse or foie gras as its expense might suggest, but the accompanying slick of foie gras veloute doesn’t skimp on flavour.

And though the trolley-delivered Russian honey cake has become a signature, a seasonal white chocolate mousse filled with plum compote and topped with “petals” of dehydrated plum is indicative of the rewards at hand if you look past the flair and delve a little deeper.