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The Chairman has been kicking about since 2008, first in a modest Kensington spot (then called Chairman Mao) and, since 2022, in fancier digs opposite Hyde Park.

What owners Andrew Bao and Dingjun Li gained in plush surroundings, they sadly lost in foot traffic, so these days the restaurant relies on its reputation for excellent Hunanese food.

For the uninitiated, that means hot, tangy and spicy dishes, with ferments, smoky meats and pork – lots of pork. That combo suggests you’re going to be walloped, and you can absolutely dial the heat up, but there’s nuance, too: pickled vegetables add essential sharpness; textural pork and bamboo stir-fry has a pleasant hint of smoke; and an aromatic eggplant special is an energetic mix of ginger, green chillies and salty black beans.

The wine list has zip (and some great French chardonnay), but this is good beer and tea food, too, made all the better when shared.