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Olympus

Greek dining has reached new heights.

Erina Starkey
Erina Starkey

A 50-year-old bougainvillea stands at the centre of the room.
A 50-year-old bougainvillea stands at the centre of the room. James Brickwood

Greek$$

With a lofty sounding name like Olympus, you might expect the latest restaurant from The Apollo Group to have a fine-dining menu to match. But instead of the ‘food of the gods’, the new Wunderlich Lane taverna prefers to focus on the rustic fare of the villages.

Greek architecture is showcased in the light-filled dining room, which centres around a retractable oculus ceiling — an ode to the ancient amphitheatre — that can be opened on clear days.

Former Baba’s Place chef Ozge Kalvo brings both Greek and Turkish influences to the menu, which starts with mezedes like taramasalata and saganaki, and builds to a giant spinach and feta pita pie (spanakopita) served by the slice at the table.

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Greek lamb is the main event, with options for shoulder and leg, which can be bulked out with hand-cut chips and a village salad, complete with wild weeds.

The drinks list brings together an impressive selection of Mediterranean wines alongside Hellenic-inspired cocktails by Re mixologist Matt Whiley.

Erina StarkeyErina StarkeyErina is the Good Food App Editor for The Sydney Morning Herald and The Age. Previously, Erina held a number of editing roles at delicious.com.au and writing roles at Broadsheet and Concrete Playground.

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/nsw-good-food-guide/olympus-20241227-p5l0w4.html