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Double-clothed tables. Art on the walls. Uniformed waiters. What’s that saying about hanging on to things long enough that they eventually come back in style? We’re maybe not quite there yet, but something about Buon Ricordo is starting to feel refreshing.

Those with a good memory might recall how the original sign is missing the nine from the phone number, and date the restaurant back 30 years at the youngest. In fact, it’s closer to 40. But, like the career waiters rattling off specials, there’s a glint in the eye and a spring in the step.

Expert steers on Friulian wine and digestivi. Skilled hands mixing icy pre-dinner Americanos and tossing still-fabulous hand-cut fettuccine through soft truffled egg. Scampi is charred sweetly under the Salamander, braised rock-cod paccheri slaps, complimentary crostini are all zing and crunch, and the room hums with energy.

Turns out, getting the details right has timeless appeal. Who knew?