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A subtle scent of smoking timber lingers behind the easy-to-miss door of this eatery off Bellingen’s beaten path.

Where there’s smoke, there’s fire, and here it’s blazing – licking salty, plump king prawns later drenched in fermented chilli butter; chunks of zucchini teamed with house-preserved lemon; and a preposterously juicy pork chop that comes with smoked fennel and velvety apple sauce.

But there’s also exemplary seafood in this part of the world, and when the tuna are running, bluefin could be lightly seared and topped with pickled cucamelon (from a staffer’s garden, no less) and the creamy heat of chilli-oil spiked buttermilk dressing.

Banquette seating is the best spot to watch the action, but it’s the shady tables on the verandah that really make this restaurant feel like home. Cool little cocktail list, too.