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Before you even sit down at Braci, the scent of wood-fired dough announces that you’re on to a good thing. You’ll notice crisp, blistered crusts on every table in the snug dining room, which is almost always full with couples and families of all generations.

When you do place an order, make it an ice-cold negroni with a thick wedge of orange, and at least two of the pizzas that emerge at a rapid rate from the busy kitchen. (What you don’t eat is tomorrow’s lunch.) The Robinito is a colourful splash of peppery rocket and meltingly soft San Daniele prosciutto, while the Killa Beez stars hot sopressa and honey in a delicious battle of heat and sweetness.

Roasted cabbage drenched in anchovy-rich butter is a super-savoury side if you want a break from the carbohydrates, but when the pizza’s this good, why would you?