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Any meal that begins with smoked mozzarella sticks is off to a flying start.

Run by the team behind neighbouring Porteno, Bastardo is all about direct, no nonsense flavours (with a fair dash of nostalgia) put together in unexpected ways and delivered by one of best-rehearsed floor teams in town.

Sauces have a depth that only comes from standing, stirring and reducing with a nonna’s generous intent, before being brightened with fresh peas for lamb ragu, say, or neon-red cherry tomatoes for prawn paccheri (a slappy pasta that really slaps here). Red sauce fulfils its ultimate purpose in life by topping tender wagyu meatballs, which is exactly what you want to eat at a long, shared, terrazzo table.

Put your wine choices in the sommelier’s hands – there are some fabulous Italian regions on pour – and finish, as tradition dictates, with a potent amaro.