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Banksia is the sort of restaurant every regional town wishes it had, with an approachable three-course set menu, elegant candlelit dining room and experienced owner-operators calling the shots.

Husband-and-wife team Huw and Renee Jones welcome guests into the heritage-listed bank that has become their home, generously feeding diners with comforting dishes such as crisp, golden fish cakes balanced with the gentle acidity of cucumber, fennel and dill salad.

As temperatures cool, the fireplace is lit, and out come porcelain plates with lamb shank and chickpea tagine – the meat easing from the bone, its richness punctuated by preserved lemon and a dollop of yoghurt. Yes, we will have another glass of soft textured Barossa Valley red.

Dessert is deliciously unfussy, comprising a slice of lemon tart with coconut chantilly cream, followed by friendly suggestions on where to go for lunch the next day.