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Smack-bang in the middle of Surry Hills’ main dining strip, Armorica really puts the brass in “grande brasserie”. If a surface isn’t stained timber, marble, suede or leather, it’s likely a highly polished alloy. A vast dining room is run by a small army of assured efficient staff, pouring triple-digit French wines and guiding guests through the menu.

Steak is the main event (there’s at least eight different cuts) served with bone-marrow butter and your pick of a dozen sides, such as a chunky ratatouille boosted by chicken espagnole, expert-level onion rings and the silkiest potato aligot in town.

Tuna tartare to start is fragrant with caper leaves and lemon oil, while whole rock lobster is the non-steak selection of the charcoal grill. Then there’s the seafood tower, the crab cakes and the artichoke crepe, plus three pastas, cheese and six desserts.

Talk about “grande”, too.