The modern Japanese-Euro sensibility here should be no surprise to anyone familiar with the food of Michael Ryan at nearby Provenance; Hamish Nugent worked with the regional hero for many years, although here, at his own restaurant in Bright – winner of last year’s best regional newcomer – he and partner Rachel Reed are adding their own spin. The broad, comfortable room with an open fire and bar is the scene of some forward-thinking combinations, such as corn silk with preserved egg yolk, smoked bone marrow, nori and corn kernels. A silken dashi egg custard and spanner crab get a rev from saltbush, air-dried bonito and confetti-like pieces of jamon, while brined and deboned quail is all velvet-textured underneath the bright crunch of fermented cabbage with the sweetness of fennel and orange. Desserts – maybe a Rockefeller-rich chocolate cream with quark, malt biscuit and licorice ice-cream – are just as well considered. This is intelligent cooking, at a restaurant with a Bright future.

And … The menu is a roll-call of the region’s fantastic produce.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Apres-ski lodge.
Best bit Super-smart food.
Worst bit Paper napkins.